By Martha Taumata Faavae

The church the lava flow spared

Directions to the Saleaula lava fields

Savai’i is the ‘big island’.  The distinction is physical when compared to Upolu and the other two inhabited islands of Manono and Apolima.

The larger size carries over to Tutuila, Manu’a and other smaller islands inhabited by our Samoan cousins in America Samoa.

But outside of Manono and Apolima, Savai’i has a smaller population compared to Upolu.

There are many reasons why more people preferred to live in the smaller of the two islands. 

  Upolu has better access to practically everything at the social and economic level for the ease and comfort of living.

Geographically the flat landscape of the island is much easier to settle.

But it has not always been like that.  Savai’i was settlement friendly too with  thriving village populations until the 1905 Mt. Matavanu volcanic eruption.

The lava flow extended from the erupting mountain all the way to the sea.  People were forced to flee for their lives and it led to a mass exodus to the safety of Upolu.

The exodus from Savai’i gave birth to the villages of Leauva’a and Salamumu in Upolu.

This sums up briefly an important historical moment in Samoa if you are visiting the country for the first time. 

The drive from Faleolo International Airport into Apia runs past the village of Leauva’a while Salamumu is on the more southern side.

If you are lucky enough to find your way over to the ‘big island’ the whole story of the volcanic eruption is right there to see at the Saleaula village lava field.

The storytellers of the village have their history of the volcanic eruption passed down by word of mouth for more than a century.

Ms. Matauaina Saofa represents the village women’s committee responsible for looking after the visitors to the lava fields and will gladly offer an eye witness account passed down by the survivors of the volcanic eruption.

Saofa will also show you the grave of a village virgin and the church the lava flow spared.  Miracles do happen indeed.

There is a village belief into why the two sites were avoided by the stream of melted rock and all you have to do is ask Saofa.

A visit to the Saleaula village lava fields is an open invitation to all visitors to Savai’i.

The attraction is under the care of the traditional village authority of chiefs and orators so you will be in good hands.

Saofa or any of the village women’s committee members will be there to pass on what they heard from their ancestors who survived the ‘fire that burnt from below’.

Go! Visit the Saleaula lava field and be fascinated by the rich history of a significant moment in the history of not just the big island of Savai’i but of Samoa.

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